I didn’t grow up near the ocean.
I’m from Chicago, a city of skyscrapers and a Great Lake, not reef breaks or peeling point waves. But everything changed when I married my husband on the island of Maui, and the ocean became not just part of my view, but part of my life.
That was 30 years ago, and I’ve been surfing ever since.
Surfing, for me, is more than a sport; it’s a lifestyle. A way of being present. A way of staying humble. From the very beginning, I was drawn to the challenge. The ocean doesn’t care who you are. It forces you to be alert, respectful, and open to learning every time you paddle out.
Over the years, I’ve had the privilege of surfing some of the most beautiful places on Earth;
Bali, Tahiti, and one of my favorite adventures: New Zealand. My husband and I rented a camper van there and chased a swell across the coast with nothing but a surf guide and a shared love for the sea.
One morning, after taking a wrong turn, we stumbled upon a tiny town in the middle of a lifeguard competition.
As we sipped our coffee, we saw surfers running to the harbor, hopping in boats with their boards. Curious, we asked where they were headed. A few minutes later, we were onboard, heading to a beach break we’d only read about in Surfer’s Magazine.
The water sparkled under the morning sun, and the waves were perfect. That spontaneous moment became one of the most magical sessions of my life.
Like many surfers, I’ve had to work through physical and mental hurdles.
I rode a high-performance longboard for years and dealt with chronic shoulder impingement; until I found the magic board that matched my style and strength.
That board taught me an important lesson: sometimes the breakthrough isn’t about trying harder, it’s about finding what truly fits.
Now, I coach others, and I bring all these experiences to the water with me.
Surfing isn’t about how many waves you catch; it’s about the joy of the ride. It’s about coming in with a smile, no dings, and a heart full of gratitude. I always tell my students: a good session is one where you have fun, learn something, and leave the ocean better than you found it.
My husband is still my surf buddy and my ultimate coach. Surfing together has become our rhythm, our shared language, our way of reconnecting again and again.
If you’re thinking about learning to surf, or deepening your relationship with the ocean, I say: Go for it. Be open. Stay humble. And don’t forget, it’s not about performance, it’s about passion. The ocean gives us so much. The least we can do is show up, respect it, and enjoy the ride.
About the Author
Lyn is a Swell Health coach who has spent over 30 years deepening her relationship with the ocean—on Maui and beyond. With a background shaped by global surf travel, smart board choices, and lifelong learning, she coaches with a blend of humility, humor, and heart. Whether you’re just starting or rediscovering your confidence in the water, Lyn brings insight and encouragement to every session—reminding all of us that joy, connection, and presence are what truly matter.